If you haven't yet been to Ben Poremba's ELAIA, I would suggest that you do so at your earliest convenience. It is a culinary experience not to be missed.
You enter ELAIA by going into OLIO where you ascend a chalk white stairway ( that reminds one of the islands of Greece ) into a second floor dining room with a huge chandelier made of cooking utensils that has to be seen to be believed, and some amazing art, some done by Ben himself, and some paintings collected by his family. The space is intimate and sophisticated with amazing wooden chairs which are surprisingly comfortable.
I will be describing the dinner we enjoyed, however, it will not be the one you will have, as the menu changes every day, or so it seems.
The menu is printed daily. It has four courses, with four choices in each category. You may order a la carte or you may opt for the Tasting Menu of all four courses. The night we were there the First course was $10, the Second was $12, the Third was $30 and the Fourth was $8. All Four Courses was $55 a person. My advice, go for the Tasting Menu, the selections are wonderful, the portions are small so you won't feel stuffed, and it's part of the experience.
Chuck chose the CHILLED SUNCHOKE SOUP with APPLE and VERMOUTH for his first course. It came in a beautiful pitcher which was emptied into a lovely soup bowl. The texture was like velvet, and the flavor was lovely. I chose PARFAIT of FOIS GRAS with RHUBARB, STRAWBERRIES, and CELERY. The plate was a work of art, an egg shaped scoop of luscious Fois Gras Mousse, with the fruit artistically arranged in a tiny mosaic. It was memorable from every angle.
For his Second Course, CJC chose SPRING SALAD, which consisted of Arugula, Speck, Green Almonds and Marconas. He loved it. I had POACHED HEN EGG with FREGOLA, GUANCIALE, and SWEET PEAS. Fregola is a pasta similar to couscous and Guanciale is unsmoked pig jowl bacon. It was a fabulous dish.
We both had the STURGEON with FAVA BEANS, CAULIFLOWER, CARROT and WHITE GAZPACHO for our Fourth course. It was everything a Spring dish should be. Crispy skin on the Sturgeon, creamy cauliflower, fava beans are one of the jewels of the Spring, brilliant green in color and a flavor that is so fabulous that no one can resist it. It is my all time favorite bean. The entire dish was perfect.
The Fourth Course, naturally, was dessert. We opted for BAR MARSEILLE made with DULCE DE LECHE and COFFEE. A beautiful bar of cake, cream, and icing. Zowee.
As I mentioned there are at least four selections for each course, so you have many choices, and I bet they are all superb.
The wine stewart has won many awards, so be sure to let him choose your pairings, or, if you prefer, our bottles. You won't be sorry.
ELAIA
1634 TOWER GROVE AVENUE
63110
314-932-1088WWW.ELAIASTL.COM
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
CENTRAL TABLE FOOD HALL
Last Friday Chuck and I went to see the new space on South Euclid near the Forest Park Parkway, Siteman Center and across the street from Tom's Bar and Grill.
We were alerted to its opening by both Sauce and Feast May issues. The official opening was April 30.
First of all, the 10,000 square feet of space is sophisticated and beautiful. Sauce Magazine says it is part cafeteria, part wine bar, part fine-dining restaurant. It's a bit early to characterize it as all those things yet, but I can add that it does have a coffee and "European" chocolate bar, plus a Market Place where you can pick up a few local vegetables, fancy condiments and take-out sandwiches and entrees.
The consulting chef is Cary Neff and the executive chef is Nick Martinkovic. Open so far are the Deli Bar, where you can get very interesting salads and sandwiches, the Grill Bar, which the day we were there, was serving pastas and wood oven pizzas, that looked yummy, the afore mentioned Coffee and Chocolate Bar. In the works are an Oyster and Clam Raw Bar, and freshly rolled sushi from, according to Sauce Magazine, "Chop Shop's own Eliott Harris".
We opted for salads and found the two we chose, a Caesar and a Farmhouse with beets and goat cheese, to be fresh, ice cold and well prepared. The service was unfailingly nice, courteous and welcoming. We also had a brownie from the Coffee/Chocolate bar: don't miss it!
It's brand new, it's evolving , and it promises to be a terrific alternative Central West End eatery.
After 5PM we understand that plated service will be available.
Check it out.
CENTRAL TABLE FOOD HALL
23 South Euclid
314-932-5595
www.centraltablestl.com
We were alerted to its opening by both Sauce and Feast May issues. The official opening was April 30.
First of all, the 10,000 square feet of space is sophisticated and beautiful. Sauce Magazine says it is part cafeteria, part wine bar, part fine-dining restaurant. It's a bit early to characterize it as all those things yet, but I can add that it does have a coffee and "European" chocolate bar, plus a Market Place where you can pick up a few local vegetables, fancy condiments and take-out sandwiches and entrees.
The consulting chef is Cary Neff and the executive chef is Nick Martinkovic. Open so far are the Deli Bar, where you can get very interesting salads and sandwiches, the Grill Bar, which the day we were there, was serving pastas and wood oven pizzas, that looked yummy, the afore mentioned Coffee and Chocolate Bar. In the works are an Oyster and Clam Raw Bar, and freshly rolled sushi from, according to Sauce Magazine, "Chop Shop's own Eliott Harris".
We opted for salads and found the two we chose, a Caesar and a Farmhouse with beets and goat cheese, to be fresh, ice cold and well prepared. The service was unfailingly nice, courteous and welcoming. We also had a brownie from the Coffee/Chocolate bar: don't miss it!
It's brand new, it's evolving , and it promises to be a terrific alternative Central West End eatery.
After 5PM we understand that plated service will be available.
Check it out.
CENTRAL TABLE FOOD HALL
23 South Euclid
314-932-5595
www.centraltablestl.com
Wednesday, April 3, 2013
OLIO
It's been a year since I've entered anything on this blog! I cannot believe it, but it's true. Primarily it was because we keep going to our old favorites, and when we do go to a new restaurant, I feel as though I need to go back to it at least one or two more times to do it justice. Then, there were times when I was so busy eating, enjoying the people that we accompanied there, that I plain forgot to give the food the attention it deserved in order to report on it.
Ben Poremba has changed all that. He has opened two excellent eating places; one, Olio, is an informal, delightful small plate establishment in a former gasoline station, and the other is Elaia, a sophisticated, elegant and exploratory dining room that shows off his considerable talents.
Today I will only tell you of my experiences at Olio. It is located just 2 blocks north of the Missouri Botanical Garden on Tower Grove Ave and McCree Street. The transformation from a filling station to a charming eatery is absolutely wonderful. I can't wait until the weather is warm enough so the sliding overhead glass door that used to be used to bring the cars in for repairs, is opened for outdoor dining.
The space as it is right now, works beautifully. There's a bar area with great looking, very comfortable stools, where you can sample the amazing wines and cocktails that are available, as well as have your choices off the menu. The adjacent space has several ice-cream marble tables that seat 2-4 people each.
The prep space is small, but, wow, what comes out of that space is remarkable. In the evenings there is a rotisserie and every evening there is a different choice of a rotisserie item to be had.
These are some of the dishes I have sampled there. CELERY ROOT REMOULADE, julienned celery root with a lovely, light creamy dressing. I am a big fan of celery root. It is a remarkable vegetable. It looks pretty rough when it comes out of the ground or when you find it at your grocer, but the flavor is spectacular. Julienned, the texture is crunchy and truly elegant. Do try it.
I've also had the KALE AND ANCHOVY SALAD. Tiny green ribbons of baby kale that are crunchy and never bitter, are married to a dressing that is made of anchovies and a very fine olive oil. Sharing is a must, and the portions allow you to do so handsomely. Even so, I wish I had had more to enjoy of that dish after my table mates helped themselves.
The CHARRED EGGPLANT DIP is smokey and amazing. It is served with great bread. It's a true winner.
Soups change daily and are only available at lunch. Most recently I had the CELERY SOUP which was thick with minced vegetables and came with a soft cooked egg in the center! Lovely, lovely.
In the sandwich department there's the "FAMOUS" EGG SALAD. It is better than your mama's, I promise. It is also huge, so plan on sharing. The bread it's served on is fabulous as well. I've also sampled the MORTADELLA, BUTTER AND PICKLED ONION sandwich. Yum.
The menu has CHEESE SELECTIONS that are very different from any selections I've seen on any menu around town. There's a VEGETABLE AND SALAD group, try the MARINATED BEETS AND RICOTTA. SPREADS AND DIPS are wonderful with your first glass of wine. SALUMI AND CHARCUTERIE are all home made and cured. Ben began his food adventures in St Louis with his Salumi Beddu, first at Farmers' Markets, and then at his first establishment on Hampton Avenue. All the selections in this category are worth your interest. There's FISH AND SEAFOOD and under this title I am anxious to try the OCTOPUS SALAD WITH CHICK PEAS AND EDAMAME.
As you can see there are plenty of choices for all kinds of appetites. After 5:30PM there are selections by the day of HOT PLATES AND ROTISSERIE. So come and try them out.
I have never made it to dessert yet...but one of these days.
Take a look at the menu on line at oliostl.com.
Olio
1634 Tower Grove Ave
932-1088
Saturday, April 7, 2012
RIVERBEND RESTAURANT AND BAR
We had a terrific Friday lunch at this delicious restaurant that is close to the Brewery in Soulard. Sam and Pat Kogos have created a bit of N"Orleans and it is delicious!
I had read a review of it in St Louis Magazine in March and filed it away for further reference. That review was really favorable as well, so last Friday for our Friday Lunch Date, that's where we went.
We both chose the same things, not our usual practice, and I will tell you that they were both so good that I can't wait to go back and try the entire menu.
Sam's dad seated us at a nice table in the window. It was a day in the 60's and there were so hearty folks having lunch outside, but I need the mid-70's for that kind of dining.
We had the SEAFOOD GUMBO which is served on Fridays only, and I am sure glad we did. It was scrumptious. We each had a cup instead of a bowl because we wanted to try the COCHON DE LAIT PO-BOY that had been described in the STLMagazine. All I can say is that I was disappointed when I had finished the gumbo because I wanted it to go on and on!
But then we had the COCHON (pork) de LAIT (milk) PO-BOY, which we split, because it's a big sandwich served on a hot and crusty bread made especially for them by Vitale Bakery. YUM!
It was layered with amazingly tender and flavorful pork slices, mayonnaise, tomatoes, lettuce and pickles. Positively scrumptious. What a treat.
We were both full, but we couldn't leave without trying the desserts. I had the HOUSE MADE BREAD PUDDING WITH WHISKEY SAUCE and Chuck had the TRIPLE CHOCOLATE CAKE. Pat Kogos makes the bread pudding and it is unlike any bread pudding I've had in St Louis. It's custardy, with golden raisins and an incredible sauce. It is served hot. The chocolate cake is also served hot! Yes, hot. It has chocolate chunks and a chocolate sauce and is moist and transportable. This cake is made by a lady in Clayton.
We were told that in the summer menu, which is about to appear, there will be a PRALINE CHEESECAKE made by Little Taste of Heaven Bakery from Edwardsville, and a CRAWFISH CORN BISQUE. You can't beat it.
As you can tell we were blown away by this meal. We will be back. And we encourage all of you to go there. It is truly a FIND!
Riverbend Restaurant and Bar
701 Utah Street
St Louis MO 63118
Sunday, March 4, 2012
Sidney Street Cafe
We had another wonderful experience and meal at Sidney Street Cafe Thursday night. This is one of my most favorite restaurants, as you well know if you've been reading St Louie Foodie.
The atmosphere is warm, cozy, yet sophisticated, and, dare I say, romantic. This is one restaurant where you can have an intimate conversation.
We were there with four friends and everyone agreed that the meal was delicious, the service was excellent, and the experience was one to be repeated often.
Kevin Nashan has made this St Louis favorite even better. His devotion to better food manifests his philosophy in the way he has wrapped his parking lot with raised beds of vegetables and herbs, the seeds he is sowing now for this summer, the meats he is smoking in his own charcuterie, and the jars of preserved fruits and vegetables that he canned last summer to use in his restaurant this winter.
I highly recommend this restaurant to all my good and special friends. If you haven't been to Sidney street Cafe in years, it is high time for you to remedy that. You won't be disappointed.
Sidney Street Cafe
2000 Sidney Street
St Louis, MO 63104
314-771-5777
www.sidneystreetcafe.com
The atmosphere is warm, cozy, yet sophisticated, and, dare I say, romantic. This is one restaurant where you can have an intimate conversation.
We were there with four friends and everyone agreed that the meal was delicious, the service was excellent, and the experience was one to be repeated often.
Kevin Nashan has made this St Louis favorite even better. His devotion to better food manifests his philosophy in the way he has wrapped his parking lot with raised beds of vegetables and herbs, the seeds he is sowing now for this summer, the meats he is smoking in his own charcuterie, and the jars of preserved fruits and vegetables that he canned last summer to use in his restaurant this winter.
I highly recommend this restaurant to all my good and special friends. If you haven't been to Sidney street Cafe in years, it is high time for you to remedy that. You won't be disappointed.
Sidney Street Cafe
2000 Sidney Street
St Louis, MO 63104
314-771-5777
www.sidneystreetcafe.com
Niche
Last night my husband and I went to Niche. It was a memorable experience. From the moment I walk in through the door, the atmosphere makes me feel as though I am in another city. I am not sure that this reaction is one that Gerard Craft wants, but it's there for me nonetheless. I say that because Gerard not only got the "establishment" to look at St Louis with his outstanding talent, but he is a huge St Louis booster, and he is doing whatever is in his power, to bring even more culinary interest to our city. We are blessed with talent.
Before I get to our meal, I'd like to point out that the decor, the lighting, the intimacy, the friendliness and knowledge of the staff, all combine to make dining there delightful. I say that knowing that this Summer, Niche will be moving to new quarters in Clayton, and I hope that these qualities will not be lost.
Now to our food.
Chuck and I started our meal with Celery Root Soup. It was absolutely amazingly delicious. The texture of the broth was silken. First the warm bowl came from the kitchen with a still life of crunchy wheat berries , tiny pieces of grapefruit and tarragon. Then in a separate container the soup was poured over this assemblage in a creamy, hot stream. The flavor and the different textures on your tongue hit all the high spots; salty, sweet, tart, and crunchy. It was so good I asked Carrie, our wonderful waitress to bring spoons so I could give the people sitting next to us, whom we did not even know, a taste. Earlier, they had shared some squid ink drenched bread that had been deep fried on their choice of first course, Lobster, with Celery,Green Apple and Togarashi Hollandaise. These are the kinds of things that happen at Niche.
Next, my Honey had Wild Steelhead, with Fennel, Blood Orange, Pistachio. This is a fish in the trout family with pink flesh. The fennel was roasted and caramelized, the sauce was blood orange and a kaffir lime reduction, and the pistachio was a puree mixed with marscapone cheese. There were what looked like very delicate potato chips that turned out to be the very thin, crispy skin of the Steelhead, that Carrie said is called pescarone. The plate was gorgeous; the pale pink of the fish, the red of the blood orange sauce, the soft green of the pistachio-marscapone and the pale golden brown of the fish skin that somehow was perched on its edges. It was not only delicious but exquisite.
My choice was Pork Duo, that consisted of Smoked Pork Shoulder, Pulled Belly, Popcorn Polenta, and Hickory Broth. Talk about flavor and texture! it was a tour de force. The pork shoulder had been smoked so that the flavor was perfect, not too smokey but delicious, and had been pulled apart into tender morsels. The pork belly was fatty and yummy. The popcorn polenta was wonderful. The popcorn had been popped in butter, pureed and mixed with the polenta which was then made into a cake and seared. To make something delicious even more so, the cake was topped with crispy pork cracklings. All of this was enhanced by a thin hickory broth that married all parts together beautifully. Amazing.
Our dessert came on a long, thin white plate. On it was Beet Micro Sponge Cake, Coconut Chocolate Crumble with Dehydrated Beets, Orange Sambucca Sorbet, Dark Chocolate Ice-Cream, Walnuts and Dill.
What a fabulous meal.
Niche Restaurant
1831 Sidney Street
St Louis MO 63104
314-773-7755
nichestlouis.com
Before I get to our meal, I'd like to point out that the decor, the lighting, the intimacy, the friendliness and knowledge of the staff, all combine to make dining there delightful. I say that knowing that this Summer, Niche will be moving to new quarters in Clayton, and I hope that these qualities will not be lost.
Now to our food.
Chuck and I started our meal with Celery Root Soup. It was absolutely amazingly delicious. The texture of the broth was silken. First the warm bowl came from the kitchen with a still life of crunchy wheat berries , tiny pieces of grapefruit and tarragon. Then in a separate container the soup was poured over this assemblage in a creamy, hot stream. The flavor and the different textures on your tongue hit all the high spots; salty, sweet, tart, and crunchy. It was so good I asked Carrie, our wonderful waitress to bring spoons so I could give the people sitting next to us, whom we did not even know, a taste. Earlier, they had shared some squid ink drenched bread that had been deep fried on their choice of first course, Lobster, with Celery,Green Apple and Togarashi Hollandaise. These are the kinds of things that happen at Niche.
Next, my Honey had Wild Steelhead, with Fennel, Blood Orange, Pistachio. This is a fish in the trout family with pink flesh. The fennel was roasted and caramelized, the sauce was blood orange and a kaffir lime reduction, and the pistachio was a puree mixed with marscapone cheese. There were what looked like very delicate potato chips that turned out to be the very thin, crispy skin of the Steelhead, that Carrie said is called pescarone. The plate was gorgeous; the pale pink of the fish, the red of the blood orange sauce, the soft green of the pistachio-marscapone and the pale golden brown of the fish skin that somehow was perched on its edges. It was not only delicious but exquisite.
My choice was Pork Duo, that consisted of Smoked Pork Shoulder, Pulled Belly, Popcorn Polenta, and Hickory Broth. Talk about flavor and texture! it was a tour de force. The pork shoulder had been smoked so that the flavor was perfect, not too smokey but delicious, and had been pulled apart into tender morsels. The pork belly was fatty and yummy. The popcorn polenta was wonderful. The popcorn had been popped in butter, pureed and mixed with the polenta which was then made into a cake and seared. To make something delicious even more so, the cake was topped with crispy pork cracklings. All of this was enhanced by a thin hickory broth that married all parts together beautifully. Amazing.
Our dessert came on a long, thin white plate. On it was Beet Micro Sponge Cake, Coconut Chocolate Crumble with Dehydrated Beets, Orange Sambucca Sorbet, Dark Chocolate Ice-Cream, Walnuts and Dill.
What a fabulous meal.
Niche Restaurant
1831 Sidney Street
St Louis MO 63104
314-773-7755
nichestlouis.com
Friday, December 2, 2011
HOME WINE KITCHEN
Tonight we had a very relaxed and delicious dinner at Home Wine Kitchen in Maplewood. I really like the ambiance in this place; it's friendly, calm, and welcoming. Which does not mean that it is not lively. It's that too.
There's just something about the blackboard behind the bar with the wines by the glass listed on it-reds on the right, whites on the left signified by their logo, which is a house inside a circle, lighter for the whites, darker for the reds, that somehow pleased me visually. All the wines by the glass are the same price, $7.
Their menu changes weekly. You can sign up on their website to get it my email, which I recommend. The chef is Cassandra Vires and she is very talented. She is co-owner with Joshua Renbarger, who is the "wine guy", and he really knows his stuff. The combination of these two and their philosophy of asking you to come into their "Home", "Kitchen", "Wine Bar", really works.
Tonight Chuck had the White Mackerel made with saffron, lemon, gold potatoes that had been slightly smashed with their skins still on, white wine and herbs. I had the Pork Fillet which consisted of two hearts of the pork chop wrapped in speck( bacon) fig, and white wine served with roasted Brussel Sprouts in balsamic vinegar. It was excellent. The perfect Fall meal.
For dessert I chose Sea Salt Shortbread Biscuits with Fig Jam and Humboldt Fog Cheese and Black Walnuts. The combination was perfect, but it wasn't "sweet" so my Honey didn't much care for it. i loved the cheese which is creamy and woodsy.
I recommend this place for all my friends to try. They serve lunch as well and are closed on Tuesdays.
Take a look at their website for more information.
HomeWineKitchen
7322 Manchester Road
314-802-7676
homewinekitchen.com
There's just something about the blackboard behind the bar with the wines by the glass listed on it-reds on the right, whites on the left signified by their logo, which is a house inside a circle, lighter for the whites, darker for the reds, that somehow pleased me visually. All the wines by the glass are the same price, $7.
Their menu changes weekly. You can sign up on their website to get it my email, which I recommend. The chef is Cassandra Vires and she is very talented. She is co-owner with Joshua Renbarger, who is the "wine guy", and he really knows his stuff. The combination of these two and their philosophy of asking you to come into their "Home", "Kitchen", "Wine Bar", really works.
Tonight Chuck had the White Mackerel made with saffron, lemon, gold potatoes that had been slightly smashed with their skins still on, white wine and herbs. I had the Pork Fillet which consisted of two hearts of the pork chop wrapped in speck( bacon) fig, and white wine served with roasted Brussel Sprouts in balsamic vinegar. It was excellent. The perfect Fall meal.
For dessert I chose Sea Salt Shortbread Biscuits with Fig Jam and Humboldt Fog Cheese and Black Walnuts. The combination was perfect, but it wasn't "sweet" so my Honey didn't much care for it. i loved the cheese which is creamy and woodsy.
I recommend this place for all my friends to try. They serve lunch as well and are closed on Tuesdays.
Take a look at their website for more information.
HomeWineKitchen
7322 Manchester Road
314-802-7676
homewinekitchen.com
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